Laos By Numbers

posted by: Emma

We purposely slowed down in Laos, giving ourselves almost two months to cycle lessSunset vendor by Mekong than 2000km through the country. From steep climbs in the north to heat waves in the south, our cycling wasn’t without challenges, but extended breaks in Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Pakse and Don Det ensured that days off the bike outnumbered days cycling for the first time in our trip. Among our most treasured memories are the children of Laos who enthusiastically waved and shouted sabaidee whenever they spotted us cycling by, some almost falling over in the process. While we saw little wildlife in what was once the land of a million elephants we were still won over by Laos’ lazy charms.

Here are some facts and figures from our time cycle touring in Laos:

  • 1992 km cycled (longest day 125km, several short 8km days on Don Det)
  • 48 nights in hotel beds, 5 nights in a apartment, 1 night free-camping
  • 30 “rest days” from 54 total days in Laos (that’s a lot of resting!)
  • 27 international cycle tourists met (four of them cycled with)
  • 10 words of Laos learnt
  • 10 Western style meals enjoyed among many days of sticky rice
  • 8 domestic elephants spotted and 1 ridden
  • 5 caves explored (including a 7km boat ride through Kong Lor cave)
  • 4 waterfalls visited
  • 4 cups of single estate espresso drunk during our Paksong coffee tour
  • 3 vomiting instances (Emma’s last night in Laos wasn’t so fun)
  • 2 days wearing socks and sandals (to prevent sunburn, not as fashion)
  • 1 cheap Chinese tablet computer purchased (then 3 days to get it working)
  • 1 troop of monkeys spotted by Justin
  • 1 motorbike ridden (by Justin with no previous experience)
  • 1 communal breakfast shared with a rice farmer and friends
  • 1 punctured inner tube (a failed patch in Emma’s £4 Chinese tyre)

Justin’s most exciting cave: The 7km boat ride in the pitch black through Kong Lor cave rates as one of the most exciting experiences of my trip. Exiting the cave on the far side to find a German tourist playing a set of Scottish bagpipes to the bemusement of the Laos villagers made it extra memorable.

Emma’s best ice coffee: On a warm day heading south from Xeno I followed the local trend of getting my drink to go, carefully carrying a carrier bag of ice, condensed milk and coffee on my handlebars until the ice had diluted the super sweet concoction. Possibly the best cyclist fuel I’ve come across.

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