Our path through Cambodia was far from straight, bearing a more than passing
resemblance to the signature sword stroke of Zorro. Our route was defined by a combination of wanting to visit a few temple sites and the desire to enter Thailand as close to Bangkok as possible. Between the temple visits we spent a very social few days in the capital Phnom Penh and relaxed in the quiet riverside town of Kampot with a visit to the beach thrown in for good measure. Cambodia is perhaps the flattest (and hottest) country we have cycled in seeing us set our trip distance record on the stretch from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, but we still left with broad smiles and good memories.
Here are some facts and figures from our time cycle touring in Cambodia:
- 1334 km cycled (longest day 151km, shortest 18km to Angkor Wat)
- 27 nights in hotel beds
- 500 grams of crabs inexpertly shelled (with one cut finger along the way)
- 360 shouts of hello replied to each day (based on average per hour calculation)
- 17 temples visited including Angkor Wat, Koh Ker and Beng Mealea
- 10 international cycle tourists met (just one cycled with)
- 7 Fresh coconuts drunk
- 5 instant noodle meals consumed
- 4 Cambodian dishes added to Emma’s culinary expertise
- 4 troops of monkeys spotted (3 in Angkor Wat complex)
- 2 tuk-tuk rides (squeezing 6 travellers in Cambodian style)
- 1 sea waded in
- 1 Chinese New Year celebrated
- 1 domestic elephant spotted carrying cement down a national highway
- 1 bottom bracket replaced (Justin)
- 1 headset re-greased (Emma)
- 0 punctures (even Em’s cheap Chinese tire still holding up!)
Justin’s most adventurous temple exploration: Following a stream of children clambering over, under and between the ruins of Beng Mealea.
Emma’s fondest memory: A troupe of children all dressed in brightly coloured pyjama sets starting an impromptu conga line outside a restaurant we were eating breakfast in. On reflection, they were probably copying the dragon dances which saw in the New Year along the Cambodian coast.
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On the all important food front, it has been thoroughly enjoyable to cross into Cambodia. An abundance of fresh fruit, what we call ‘pot-luck’ dinners (where you pick what you want to eat by seeing what is in each pot) and Cambodian-style icy desserts in all but the smallest towns means we’ve rarely gone hungry. If it wasn’t for the heat regularly robbing us of our appetites, I’d have some concern about the balance of calories eaten vs burnt. – Posted by Emma
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Awaking at 4:45am, I silence the alarm quickly but make no move to get up. We’ve both had a restless night in our too warm hotel room with a fan that only works at the fastest, noisiest and most sleep-disturbing speed. I’m already exhausted by the thought of starting the day at this hour, let alone heading out on a sightseeing binge. “Maybe we shouldn’t go today?” I trial the words on Justin. He’s quick to agree and rolls over to go back to sleep, but I lie awake in the stifling heat and reconsider. If I give in today then I’ll have this same internal battle another morning. The words are formed before my brain can compile a counter argument. “Maybe we should?” – Posted by Emma
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A month of forests, cities and trains was followed by a month of mountains and rivers as we travelled from Sochi to Moscow, Moscow to Perm and Novosibirsk to the Mongolian border. While we’ve pedalled more kilometres through Russia than any other country so far, we’ve barely scraped the surface and this has given us a real sense of the vastness of the world’s largest country. – Posted by Emma
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We purposely slowed down in Laos, giving ourselves almost two months to cycle less than 2000km through the country. From steep climbs in the north to heat waves in the south, our cycling wasn’t without challenges, but extended breaks in Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Pakse and Don Det ensured that days off the bike outnumbered days cycling for the first time in our trip. Among our most treasured memories are the children of Laos who enthusiastically waved and shouted sabaidee whenever they spotted us cycling by, some almost falling over in the process. While we saw little wildlife in what was once the land of a million elephants we were still won over by Laos’ lazy charms. – Posted by Emma
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We had only a basic idea of what we would find in China, with a change in diet after our cycling in Mongolia one of our highest priorities. After spending almost three months cycle touring in China we barely scraped the surface of the incredibly diverse and complicated country. We experienced some of the worst roads and most challenging terrain of our journey so far, but we also experienced and learnt about a number of distinct cultures. We experienced firsthand the environmental challenges China faces while cycling on traffic and smog choked roads but also bathed in the unspoilt beauty of national forest parks and the mountain landscapes of the Tibetan plateau. – Posted by Justin

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