Author Archive

October
28th
2012

Coming Home


Coming home

In March 2010, we were leaving. Definitely leaving. I imagined that word in capital letters – six years of London life packed into three tea crates and left without a forwarding address. We would be fools to send our stuff back home, we figured. Sure we were headed towards New Zealand, but anything could happen in the interim. How can you begin to imagine the end, when you’re still haven’t left familiar roads? – Posted by Emma

February
5th
2012

Rolling To A Stop


Rolling to a stop

At 4am I’m wide awake. I stare at the ceiling in the last cheap hotel in nameless small town of our trip willing Justin to wake up with the same urge to get going. Sensibly he doesn’t stir. By a slightly more reasonable 5:30am we haul our panniers down a flight of stairs one last time and clip them onto our bikes on a dark street. I wave goodbye to the half asleep security guard. He has no reason to suspect that this day will be different to any other. – Posted by Emma

February
4th
2012

Sidecars And Side Roads


Sidecars and side roads

When an official-looking man in a orange fluorescent jacket waved us off the road, I thought our bribe-dodging karma had finally worn thin. Only with the slow realisation that I had seen our assailant earlier, I pulled the brakes, coming to a stop a few metres ahead. Nic had passed us an hour earlier cruising on his motorcycle, while his son lounged in a deck chair side-cart as if they had the whole afternoon to kill. Introductions to him and his son Boy were made, and we were quickly offered huge slices of watermelon and an invitation to visit his home and farmland about 70km away. – Posted by Emma

January
31st
2012

23,000 Kilometre Photo


23,000 kilometre photo

The 23,000 kilometre photo was taken on 31st January 2012, our first day in Thailand and shortly after crossing the border from Cambodia. The kind lady who provided the additional three digits we required was a little confused as to our request but we managed to convince her to join us outside her shop. The photo was taken by her friend and accompanied by much giggling between the two. With less than 1000km to Bangkok this was our final kilometre photo of the trip. In hindsight, we wished we had involved locals from the very start. – Posted by Emma

January
30th
2012

The Hot South


The Hot South

Our desire to get to the coast, and specifically into the sea, has been waning a little lately. Originally planning to spend a week sitting out the heat on the Sihanoukville peninsula, we didn’t have the energy to cycle 80km out of our way to a beach resort which not one fellow traveller had enthused about. Time was short too, with extra days in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh eating into what was left of our Cambodian visas. On top of this pile of excuses, Chinese New Year was upon us, meaning that many other people would be heading south. Instead we settled into the sleepy river town of Kampot for a few extra days. – Posted by Emma

January
26th
2012

Day Of Food – Cambodia


Day of food - Cambodia

On the all important food front, it has been thoroughly enjoyable to cross into Cambodia. An abundance of fresh fruit, what we call ‘pot-luck’ dinners (where you pick what you want to eat by seeing what is in each pot) and Cambodian-style icy desserts in all but the smallest towns means we’ve rarely gone hungry. If it wasn’t for the heat regularly robbing us of our appetites, I’d have some concern about the balance of calories eaten vs burnt. – Posted by Emma

January
12th
2012

Quiet Times At Angkor Wat


Quiet times at Angkor Wat

Awaking at 4:45am, I silence the alarm quickly but make no move to get up. We’ve both had a restless night in our too warm hotel room with a fan that only works at the fastest, noisiest and most sleep-disturbing speed. I’m already exhausted by the thought of starting the day at this hour, let alone heading out on a sightseeing binge. “Maybe we shouldn’t go today?” I trial the words on Justin. He’s quick to agree and rolls over to go back to sleep, but I lie awake in the stifling heat and reconsider. If I give in today then I’ll have this same internal battle another morning. The words are formed before my brain can compile a counter argument. “Maybe we should?” – Posted by Emma

January
4th
2012

Laos By Numbers


Laos by numbers

We purposely slowed down in Laos, giving ourselves almost two months to cycle less than 2000km through the country. From steep climbs in the north to heat waves in the south, our cycling wasn’t without challenges, but extended breaks in Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Pakse and Don Det ensured that days off the bike outnumbered days cycling for the first time in our trip. Among our most treasured memories are the children of Laos who enthusiastically waved and shouted sabaidee whenever they spotted us cycling by, some almost falling over in the process. While we saw little wildlife in what was once the land of a million elephants we were still won over by Laos’ lazy charms. – Posted by Emma

January
3rd
2012

Lizard Days


Lizard days

We’re woken every morning by the soft ‘splosh’ of string fishing nets hitting the water, the slightly off-beat thump of a drum being hit at the temple across the river and the comically loud ‘eh-eeerh’ emitting from a gecko through our thin bamboo walls. Rising not long after the sun has pulled up into another brilliant blue, ‘no weather’ sky, we pull pillows, sleeping mats, books and computers onto our shady hammock-adorned deck and settle in for another day of idleness. Spending our last nine days in Laos on tiny Don Det island, the already slow pulse of our journey in Laos has come to a standstill. – Posted by Emma

December
25th
2011

Merry Christmas From Laos


Merry Christmas from Laos

The second Christmas ‘on the road’ finds us taking a pause at Kingfisher Ecolodge in Laos, where we’ve stretched our budget for a few days of watching elephants and buffalo stroll across the wetlands from our secluded porch. With not even a Christmas tree or elevator-style carols to disturb the tranquillity, we suspect this would be a great place to get away from the madness of the season. We managed to sneak in a little bit of the Christmas spirit with Santa visiting our bungalow in the night, delivering food-based presents in a familiar looking red backpack. – Posted by Emma